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Situated at the southeast end of Ganesh Himal; Paldor marking the junction of the Tiru and Karpu Dandas at the head of the Mailung Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli Gandaki River. The name Ganesh is taken from the elephant-headed Hindu god of good luck, probably the most popular deity in the Kathamndu valley. On a clear day the Ganesh Himal, with the icy fangs of Pabil (7101m/23300ft), Logsang Karpo (7150m/23458ft), Ganesh I (7406m/24298ft) and Ganesh V (6950m/22802ft) can be seen forming an imposing backdorp to the northwest of Kathamndu.
The quickest approach to Paldor and Ganesh Himal is from Syaprubesi just few km;s far after Dunche, which can be reached in a 6 to 7 hours drive from Kathmandu. From here the trail crosses the Langtang Khola to Syaprubesi. After crossing the Bhote Kosi river the route leads via Tamang villages of Tangjet and Gatlang, then heads northwards along the ridge before dropping into the forest above Mailung Khola to pick up the newly built road that leads to an army post. The moraine filled valley below Paldor is reached from here in another days walk. A more interesting approach is the trek from Sundarijal (on the outskirts of Kathmandu valley) through the hills of Helambu and over the Gosainkunda range to Syapru. The return from the mountain can be made by trekking directly to Trisuli Bazaar.
There are four standard climbing routes for this peak.
a) North-East Ridge (Tilman's Route).
b) South-East Ridge.
c) South-West Buttrest.
d) West Ridge
South - East Ridge : Bill Tillman tried to ascent the peak in 1949 and till another 25 years no ascent to this peak till John Cleare and Ian Howell first climbed this this peak successfully in 1974. Since then the mountain has received more attention and many new routes added.
This South-East route climbs the long snow and ice excellence that descends to the fine rock peak of Fang. The lowest point of this ridge is best reached, from a high camp on the Paldor Glacier East, by a steep snow and ice slope (55 degrees). The ridge has also been reached via a potential avalanche couloir from the Paldor Glacier West. The ridge is above is followed, in places quite steeply, but without major difficulty to the summit.
North - East Ridge: From base camp, follow a path below the conspicuous moraine on its east side as far as Paldor Tarn. Here there is a small and inconspicuous lake to the south of the peak called Fang Lake. Cross the stream issuing from the lake and aim for the east ridge of Fang. This boulders slope is the Paldor Glacier east at an altitude of 5,200 meters, in a magnificent amphitheatre of alpine - scale peaks. The glacier at this point is flat and uncomplicated by crevasses.
From high camp follow the Paldor Glacier, East, without difficulty, north towards a col on the North - East Ridge. Cross the Crevasses and climb a steep snow slope to gain the col. This may be very difficult, in which case ascend the slope to the left, climbing diagonally towards a rocky pinnacle. Once on the ridge, climb over several pinnacles of loose rock leading to a horizontal snow excellence that narrows dramatically. Follow this foot of the final 150 meters (492 feet) headwall. Ascend this on steep snow to the junction of the South- East Ridge, which may be corniced. Continue easily to the summit. This would be Alpine climbing and takes around eight hours from high camp.
Although combination of both these routes has been made as a traverse and is highly recommended.
Arrive to Kathmandu, an exciting and memorable experience with the panoramic view of snow-capped Himalayan range greets your sight.
Independent Himalayan Adventure's Airport Representative will meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel. After arrival to hotel, Short briefing and final payment procedures.
Sightseeing of Kathmandu including Pashupatinath, Bouddhanath. Afternoon you may excursion around Kathmandu Durbar Square and Swoyambhunath Stupa too.
We eould manage Peak permit and it is our final equipment checking day.
By bus (or Private Vehicle) to Syabru Bensi (1462 meters). Our way passing via Trishuli Bazzar and Dhunche too.
Trek to Gatlang
Trek to Somdang
Trek to Paldor Base Camp
Rest day at Base Camp for acclimatization
Trek to Paldor High Camp
Climb Paldor Peak and return to Base Camp
Trek to Pansing Bhanjyang
Trek to Rupchet
Trek to Saline
Trek to Deurali
Trek to Trisuli & drive back to Kathmandu
Independent Himalayan Adventure's Airport representative will drop you all to Kathmandu "Tribhuvan International Airport" for onward destination.
Climbing Permit fee for Group "A" NMA Peaks:
Group size 1 to 7 persons : US$ 500
each additional climbingmember upto 12 person US$ 100
Climbing Permit fee for Group "B" NMA Peaks:
Group size 1 – 4 persons: US$ 350 only
Group size 5 – 8 persons: US$ 350 plus US$ 40 per person
Group size 9 – 12 persons: US $ 510 plus US$ 25 per person
US $ 250 (refundable after submit garbage clearance letter)
Climbing Guides fee/allowance:
US$ 300 for normal peaks
US$ 500 to 700 for technical peaks
Helicopter Air rescue: US $ 1200 per hour (small helicopter on necessary)