Kwangde Peak Climbing - 21 days
Kwangde Peak Climbing

Kwangde peak (6011 meters) is difficult mountain forms and impressive multi – summited ridge on the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which in turn can be regarded as part of the Rolwaling Himal. Rising south west of Namche Bazaar above the Bhote Koshi, the mountain’s northern flank forms an impressive barrier that throws down several steep ridges to the north. Its glaciated southern flank is more aloof.

It is hidden at the northern end up the Lumding Drangka, a high and remote valley bounded to the west by the tumbling glaciers of Karyolung (6511m/21361ft), Khartang (6853m/ 22484ft) and Numbur (6959m/ 22831ft). The Lumding valley is rarely visited by trekkers or expeditions. At the northern end of the valley the stream cascades down a natural rocky barrier above which is a moraine – bound lake, the Tsho-Og, at the snout of the Lumding glacier.



Area: Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area Kwangde Ri is also called Kongde Ri and Kwande on various maps. This difficult mountain forms an impressive multi-summited ridge on the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which in turn can be regarded as part of the Rolwaling Himal. Rising south-west of Namche Bazaar above the Bhote Kosi river, the mountain's northern flank forms an impressive barrier that throws down several steep ridges to the north.



It's glaciated southern flank is more aloof. It is hidden at the northern end of the Lumding Drangka, a high and remote valley bounded to the west by the tumbling glaciers of Karyolung (6,511m/21,361ft), Khartang (6,853m/22,484ft) and Numbur (6,959m/22,831ft). The Lumdring valley is rarely visited by trekkers or expeditions. At the northern end of the valley the stream cascades down a natural rocky barrier above which is a moraine-bound lake, the Tsho Og, at the snout of the Limding Glacier. North of the Tsho Og, itself hidden in a huge rocky cwm, is the massive Lumding Tsho Teng (5,151m/16,899ft).



All of the routes climbed to date on the Kwangde Peaks are difficult, none have proved suitable for commercial trekking peak expeditions. The routes on the North Face are particularly difficult and reflect recent developments in lightweight Himalayan climbing, with an emphasis on technical difficulty and a high degree of commitment. They have invariably been made by two climbers without support camps or fixed ropes, although in at least one case a subsequent ascent has seen a return to traditional siege style tactics with masses of fixed rope and camps. Even the routes on the South Face are committing and difficult, although the climbing is more traditional in character.



The first ascent of Kwangde Lho was made by a Nepalese expedition in 1975 which was led by Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah; founder of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The actual summit was reached on 17 October by Lhakpa Tenzing. Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang and Sonam Hisi via the South Ridge.



Experienced climbers who are looking for rarely climbed and challenging small peak in the Himalayas will find this peak very attractive. Further Information to arrange a climb to this peak will be provided on request.