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Mt. Pumori 7161 meters; is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya.
Our trek kicks off at Lukla. For the actual climb we will use the classical route, which was first opened by a German -Swiss team. We climb the enormous southeast slope till the junction with the north-east ridge. This route requires the least amount of technically: but is exposed to objective dangers: an avalanche prone section and a section exposed to sera fall.
The Base Camp is at an altitude of 3500 meters while the advanced camp is established at an altitude of 5900 meters. This stunning peak lies in the Upper Khumbu region and is situated among some of the world's best-known mountains and most spectacular scenery. Pumori is a fantastic mountaineering objective; the peak straddles the Nepalese-Tibetan border, allowing a view of the great contrast between the arid Tibetan Plateau to the north and west, and the white snow covered peaks of Nepal to the south and east.
We'll climb by following the southeast buttress in its lower reaches before traversing open snow slopes to reach a Col on the East Ridge. All that remains will be to be climbing the summit slopes above. The route is mixed and varied and the climb is not of high technical difficulty. It is physically demanding with long days and sections with a lot of exposure; most of the technical difficulties are in the first half of the climb. We'll establish at least three camps above the base camp, fixing all rope when necessary.
The trip is best suited for strong, experienced climbers who want to climb the peak in its own right, or to gain experience for climbing higher peaks in the future.
Country: Nepal
Region: Everest Khumbu
Activities: Mountain Expedition
Duration: 38 Days
Max. Altitude: 7161 m.
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Group Size: 2-12
Season: April - Jun , Sept - Nov
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This holiday can be customized accroding to your need.
Arrive to Kathmandu, an exciting and memorable experience with the panoramic view of snow-capped Himalayan range greets your sight.
Independent Himalayan Adventure's Airport Representative will meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel. After arrival to hotel, Short briefing and final payment procedures.
We will finalize paperwork-permit for your trip.
Final checking preparatio of your climbing equipments.
Sightseeing tours of Kathmandu Valley.
Briefing in Ministry of Tourism, Mountaineering Section. Get pemit and final prepare for next day flight to Lukla.
An early morning goto the Kathmandu Domestic Airport Terminal for the 35 minute scenic flight to Lukla at 2804 meters. On arrival at the Lukla airport guide will brief you and introduce our supporters before we begin our trek towards Phakding at 2610 meters.
Approx 3 hours Trekking.
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3441 meters) 5.30 hours. Namche Bazaar known as the capital of Khumbu and the Gateway to Everest which is home to many good hotels and lodges here, along the whole Everest trail this is quite a big village.
We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek where a museum is celebrating the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Today we hike up the Syangboche Airport around Everest View Hotel. From this point, we can see rewarding views of the Himalayas with a stunning sunrise and sunset over the panorama of Khumbu peaks.
Trek to Tyangboche Monastery (3860 meters) 5 hours.
We trek to an altitude of 3860 meters today.
There is a beautiful monastery 'Tyangboche' is situated with several monks. On reaching Tyangboche our guide will tell you about the local monastery situated here. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony either in the evening or morning depending on how the days trekking went.
Trek from Tyanboche after morning view around including pray in to the Monastery. arrive Pheriche 4243 meters; where you will get Medical Aid post for your required 'High Altitudes Sicknes' or your pre-medical check.
Trekking from Pheriche to Lobuche (4930 meters)
Early morning view of Mt. Pumori and surrounding Peaks. Then trek to Ghorakshep (5184 m.) for your acclimatization. It will give your very good breath and Next day you have to climb up to Kalapattar (5544 m.)
Very early in the morning climb up to Kalapattar (5544 m.) and view around. You would get Mt. Pumori Just front of you and saying you Hello from there. If possible, shake your hand from long way and tell her that you are going to kiss her soon ;).
Trek from Lobuche to Pumori Base Camp
Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m.
High and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.
Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it's vertex Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; and who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori.
You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori.
You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to climb.
South - West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997.
After Summit you back to Pumori Base Camp to clean up your Base Camp around.
Trek down to Dingboche for night stop. some people can down to Pangboche too.
Trek down to Tyangboche
The walk from Tyangboche is mostly downhill on the main busy trail with a few steep climbs for an hour from the bridge at Phungitenga, near to Shanasha. The walk to Namche is very scenic on a long winding path.
The last day of your trek leads you from Namche Bazaar via Phakding, Monjo to Lukla.
The trek is pleasant, except for few short uphill climbs and then down to the Bhote-Koshi River crossing it three times. The last uphill climb of 45 minutes will bring you to Lukla for your overnight stay.
Enjoy your Last day party with your crew and group.
Morning flight back to Kathmandu. Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu.
A reserve Day for your expedition period. This day you can visit around Kathmandu. Do local and your favorite shopping. Enjoy and rest more.
If you did not finished your shopping previously, you can do some moring shopping.
You will then transferred to the International airport with Independent Himalayan Adventure's Airport Representative for your onward journey.
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